
"Every man must return to the place where he was born." This was the answer the late Sam Taalak gave me 20 years ago when I asked him why he had come back to build a new village at Nuiqsut 20 years before that. The small Inupiat community Sam had grown up in had been dispersed by the forces of the modern world but in 1973, following passage of the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act and the founding of the North Slope Borough, 27 families packed up their tents and belongings onto sleds and took a 150 mile machine ride to rebuild their village. They lived, set up store and taught and attended school in tents for 18 months in a place where the ambient winter temperature can drop into the -70's and windchills... too hard to calculate. This week they are celebrating their 40 years as an old village made new again. Today, celebrants ventured half-an hour downriver on the Kuukpik (Coleville) to a camp called Nigliq. As each boat came in and pulled up to the bank, boaters were greeted by the drums and songs of the Kuukpikmiut - the Kuukpik People.